By Farah Hashim
Sound of Sayed Hasan Nasrallah is heard on TV of mini markets along southern area streets, little kids wearing old used clothes and blue slippers running toward people to sell pictures for Hezbollah and Hasan Nasrallah. Motorcycles, bikes, vans, taxi cars are trapped in what it called “aaj’eet el dahye” (southern area traffic jam)
Following all that, you will notice in southern area Christmas trees, red balloons and mistletoes hanged on the big street light. in addition to Ma’awad market new Christmas candy, trees and decoration were set for sale. The attracting thing is, the word merry Christmas is written near Adha mobarak on a big poster hanged in Ma‘awad square and a big glowing trees are held in Sfier and Rowes area.
At the same time as I was walking down Hadi Nasralah Street I could not but notice pictures of Nasrallah ,Hezbollah flags, and lot of trees which they are beautifully mixed with Christmas decoration that made Hadi Nasrlah road glows , a white taxi car stopped in front of me to take me to my destination. Inside that car, an old man in his late 60’s in his white hair, wrinkled skin and dark blue eyes was sitting there in the driver’s side listening to Quran on his old dusty radio. His car was wrapped with Hasan Nasrallah photos and posters.
Suddenly, the news hit Ali’s old radio, the news cast started to brief all the Lebanese local news.
“Who said there is religious difference in Lebanon? Who said there is sectarianism in Lebanon? Southern area in Beirut is known for its huge population of Shiite and some Sunni, but when you get to it now, you will feel it’s a Christian area.” Said Ali with a slice of anger in his voice he added, “before civil war Southern side was a Christian area so why this difference now?
He also told me that Lebanon is united and no one suffers from sectarianism except for its leaders.
Ammo Ali (as they call him) was irritated, he really wanted to celebrate Christmas in a peaceful circumstances but as he said,
”when there is America on the line the peace is gone.”
He kept puffing smoke from his cigarette, and releases his worries and thoughts about his home Lebanon.
The car is moving hardly in the street. Ammo Ali is shouting at the other hostile cars that are taking big place in the street. He opened the window, pointed his hand toward the coming cars and stopped them in order for him to move, and then he shouted “yeslamo.”
“adha mobarak wo melad majeed.” Said Ammo Ali to other angry drivers to make them relaxed and take away their anger.
Mostly every store in Hadi Nasrallah and Rowes I went to, a Christmas tree was placed there, shining the store beautifully,even some of the stores hanged small Santa Clause toy which sings merry charismas HO HO HO. “It is amazing when you see the Christian with the Muslim celebrating their joy together.” Ammo Ali said while waiting the orders from the police man to move. Meanwhile all you can hear is a person shouting “badna nemshi yallah”(come on move it) or sound of horns taking control of the situation.
When the car reached the required destination which is Hay Sellom I gave Ammo Ali 2000 L.L and said goodbye and wished him a joyful holidays.
The moment you enter hay Sellom, your eyes will take you to the amount of garbage
around every street, and every block, the big green container of the Sukleen is filled with garbage to the extent it’s floating. The streets are polluted, and the huge number of the squeezed building next to one another, gives a snap shot to the economical status of the area.
They call it Lebanese china town but I call it the other side of Lebanon.
It’s known that every country in the world has a poor district, like the Bronx in New York, Latino Street in Los Angles, Hawali Street in Kuwait, Shobra in Egypt, and Hay Sellom in Beirut.
It’s near the airport so the first place that traveler’s sees is Hay Sellom. tiny squeezed houses with balconies filled with laundry.
When you look up you will be paying attention to the satellite wires that are tied with telephone, internet and electricity wires, producing a huge big knot bonding together like a big piece of stripes.
When you walk down Mojamah Barakat Street you will be alarmed by the small Santa clause hanged on every garage wall or restaurant, and small gifts shops lighting up their place with Christmas lighting.
It’s known that Hay Sellom has a huge number of Shiite, according to studies made by the government, “it doesn’t mean that Christmas is not on the list of our celebrations.” Said sheikh Khatoon
“Celebrating Christmas is like celebrating Adha” said Sheikh Shawqi Khatoon who lived all his life in Hay Sellom. He is a minister that performs his duty in al abbess mosque in Madinet Al Abbes.
Shekih Shawaqi focused on the idea that Christmas is a celebration of our beloved prophet and it’s normal for us as religious and faithful people to participate in it.
Sheikh Shawqi Khatoon was sitting in his balcony in hay Sellom reading the Quran and watching people go to work every day.
His lips by no means stop smiling and his mouth is always dripping with god’s names and prayers.
His white face with sleepy eyes, big smiley lips give you a snap shot to his life and habits. He is peaceful to the extent; he puts all his effort for the worship of Allah.
“My kids celebrate Christmas like they celebrate Ramadan,” Said sheikh khatoon while holding a Barbie toy which he brought to his 7 year old daughter Fatima. “Islam and Christianity are the same. They represent God.”
“Islam and Christianity are holy religions, we can not differentiate between them at all, and as long as every one prays in the name of God, he is considered faithful to me and to all believers.”
Then he returned eating cookies in a plate next to him.
“Christmas is celebrating the birth of Jesus, son of Virgin Maryiam which Islam respects her, and appreciates her duty and role in world of divinity.” He also said that Jesus is our prophet, despite the misinterpreting of Christianity perspective, to some Christians. “It’s mentioned in the bible and other Islamic religions books that Jesus is the father (not literally) but spiritually of all believers and faithful people.” Said Sheikh Khatoon.
When he finished, he closed the book between his hands, put it near the cookie plate and left the balcony to pray.
I stayed in the balcony, the view was frustrating , smell of gasoline ,sound of trucks moving and horns , people walking ,women shouting from windows “ badi kilo batata allah ywafaak “(I want pound of potatoes mister) or shaglo el moter kif badna ndawi el shajara”(electricity is off). The electricity was off, and in front of the building I was in, there was an old lady decorating a Christmas tree, so I said good bye to Sheikh Shawqi and left to see that old woman.
She is 65years old. Her name is Ivan married and got three children Ali, Feras and Salwa who all were graduated from universities and are presently working in Dubai, Kuwait and Qatar.
They were sitting together remembering their old days with the kids, Ivan and abu ali consider Christmas and Adha holiday the way out of their loneliness when their kids arrive to Beirut for family gathering.
“I love Christmas, I celebrate it like any Lebanese, and like any believer “then she returns to decorate the tree with their old decorations.
Their house smells like sizzling hot chocolate cookies, Ivan says that her kids love drinking milk with cookies, which is why she makes them when the come back.
Mean while in the same street Hasan and Sarah are brother and sister were playing football together near their house. 7 year old Sarah was holding her yellow jacket and playing in her white dress with Hasan who loves football despite the filthy street that they are playing on.
“I love Eid because I get money” Sarah and Hasan Said.
Laley eid laylet eid el layli laylet eid” Amno Ali was singing this song along with the choir on the radio. He was moving his head right and left. His fingers were tapping on the steering wheel along with the music beats.
The car reached Souk Ma’awad (market), where all people from all parts in southern area or out side come to buy clothes, perfumes, furniture, accessories and gifts. Also a shop near Kuwait bank in Ma’awad was selling natural and artificial Christmas trees.
While walking, you can notice cherry colors every where you go, and even the front of every store was sketched on it, the word merry Christmas with white spray, also near the clock in Ma’awad Square a young man was dressed like Santa, who was giving candy to all people.
“Despite the destructive houses, the smashed buildings, the sliced cars into pieces you could still see a Christmas tree surrounded by this destruction, raised up, giving hope for Lebanese community for a better future.” Said Suha Zein, a journalist who lives in Kuwait and came to visit her house and family in southern area.
I pumped into her in a gift shop in Ma’awad, she was buying teddy bears and a small Santa toy for her son Ahmed.
Zein said that Lebanon is drained of leader’s accusations that represents Lebanon as a sectarian country and she insisted one the idea that no one is sectarian here expect for party leaders.
“They are the ones who want to differentiate between us Lebanese.”
“I’m Muslim and all my friends are Christian and Druze, and no one has a problem among it.
“We are a big family against all odds and we refuse to be tagged under our religions
identity or our sectarian party.”
“I’m dreaming of a white Christmas, just like the one I used to know,”
I followed the sound of Frank Sinatra singing this song in the middle of Shayyah road. It was a small Coffee shop and there I met Minister Nicolas Kouri where He preaches in Mar Mkayel Church every Sunday morning. He was sipping tea and listening to Frank Sinatra with the owner of the Coffee Shop Abu Fakeh.
“Last Christmas people wished for gifts, money, cars, and other material belongings but now all what we want is peace” Said Kouri
“We want a peaceful quite Christmas, around the fire place or around family dining table, eating blessed food made by the mother, and red wine from our holy land, sitting and thanking god for this amazing grace”.
Kouri Said that life in Lebanon is more than politics; Beirut is like a fruit basket filled with different kinds of fruits like apple, banana, strawberry, cherry, grapes, and orange.
“Different religions, cultures, and backgrounds will bring together a wonderful cocktail juice but some people refuse to boast this amazing drink so they try to ruin it by adding salt or pepper to it. This is politics. It is pepper to our nation, our united people, who love others and celebrate for a life time.”
“May god make this wish come true this Christmas and throw away all peppers and salt.” That all what he said about Christmas in Southern area, and refused to add more.
I sat next to minister Kouri and Abu Fakeh in the coffee shop sipping coffee, waiting for the wish to come true.